Have you ever bought written batik but it turns out that you get stamped batik or even printing. It’s really annoying right? This often happens when we can’t tell which batik is written and which is not. Though in terms of technique is very different between the three batik. This time, we will learn the technique of hand-drawn batik, from the initial work process to making batik cloth.
For the first step, the mori cloth to be made must be prepared in advance. For maximum results, batik cloth needs to be boiled (washed), starched (starched), and dikemplong (ironing). The fabric is heated to remove starch from the factory that exceeds the standard size, and then it is replaced with lighter starch. To remove the starch, the cloth is soaked overnight in clean water, then in the morning it is beaten and then rinsed with clean water. The fabric will have better color absorption. After that the cloth is starched so that the night does not seep into the cloth and later this night is easy to remove.
Nganji (Source: Handbook of Batik, BBKB Yogyakarta)
Then the cloth is kneaded so that the surface of the cloth is smooth, even, and weak by beating the cloth repeatedly.
Ngemplong (Source: Handbook of Batik, BBKB Yogyakarta)
Now, let’s study the process of written batik. The process starts from Nyoret, Ngolwong, Nembok, Medel, Mbironi, Nyoga, Nglorod. (Hmmmm, for those who don’t understand Javanese, don’t complain, because a lot of terms use the Javanese language…. cheers!).
Nyoret is drawing a pattern on a cloth that is ready to be made with a pencil.
Nyoret (Source: http://ramdaffe.wordpress.com)
Nglowong is batik pattern lines that have been drawn using canting. Hand-drawn batik with high quality, usually done nglowong on both sides of the fabric (the good part and the bad part). Nglowong on one side of the cloth is also called ngengreng and after it is finished, continue with nerusi on the other side.
Nglowong (Source: http://kantongseni.blogspot.com)
3) Nembok is to make the desired parts remain white before being dyed in a coloring agent. This night layer is like a wall, to hold the dye so it doesn’t seep into the covered parts of the night.
Nembok (Source: http://note-teman-belajar.blogspot.com)
Medel is the first immersion in dyes. The goal is to give a dark blue color as the base color of the fabric. In the past, this work took days because the dye used came from the indigo plant (called tom in Javanese). This kind of dye absorbs very slowly into the mori so that the batik cloth must be dyed repeatedly. Now with the presence of synthetic dyes it becomes much faster to absorb and the processing time can be shortened.
Medel (Source: Handbook of Batik, BBKB Yogyakarta)
Snoring is eliminating the night of klowong. The part to be turned brown is scraped with a Cawuk (a kind of blunt knife made of zinc), to remove the wax.
Ngerok (Source: Handbook of Batik, BBKB Yogyakarta)
Mbironi is batik the parts that will be disoga. Mbironi work is also done on both sides of the fabric.
Mbironi (Source: Handbook of Batik, BBKB Yogyakarta)
Results of Batik Fabric after the Mbironi Process
Results of mbironi (Source: Handbook of Batik, BBKB Yogyakarta)
Menoga is the second color dyeing. In the past, using natural soga was not enough to do one or two times, but had to be repeated. Each time immersion, must be preceded by drying in the air. By using synthetic soga, the immersion time can be shortened to a maximum of half an hour. The term soga comes from soga, which is a certain type of tree whose bark can give a brown color when immersed in water.
Nyoga (Source: Handbook of Batik, BBKB Yogyakarta)
Results of Batik Fabric after the Menoga Process
Yoga results (Source: Handbook of Batik, BBKB Yogyakarta)
Nglorod is eliminating the night. After getting the desired colors, the batik cloth still has to undergo the last processing. The night that is still left on the fabric, needs to be completely removed. The trick is to put it in boiling water.
Nglorod (Source: Handbook of Batik, BBKB Yogyakarta)
Results of Batik Fabric after Dilorod
(Source: Handbook of Batik, BBKB Yogyakarta)
The results of nglorod Now you know that the process of written batik is complicated and takes a long time. It’s okay if it’s expensive. Don’t just look at the high price, but look at and appreciate the struggle of the batik craftsmen to earn a fortune for their lives. Apart from that, they also help preserve the nation’s culture, so we must also be proud and willing to participate in preserving this written batik….